Tuesday 27th December 2011
Heho - Aungban - Pindaya
We left our hotel early and got a taxi to the domestic terminal at Yangon International Airport. We were to take the Air Yangon (the only Myanmar airline approved by the UN) flight to Heho which is about an hour's journey North. The flight is a twice daily city hopper calling at Heho, Mandalay, Bagan then returning to Yangon.
After an uneventful flight, we touched down at Heho where we were met by the rain and cold. We were delighted to see our hosts for the next two days, our good friends, Tac and his daughter Iris. Tac is a native of Yangon and retired from his position as Head of Program at UNDP in Yangon in 2007 and moved back to Shan State, where he still has family. Iris works at a communications company in Kala Lumpa. She was visiting for the holiday season.
Heho is a small rural airport located in the heart of the Shan Tribe territory. With all the recent changes, the region is now under police control and safe. Tac confirmed this. Even though we'd arrived on a domestic flight, our passport details and visa numbers were noted down by hand in a slow and scrupulous manner. How they hope to keep track of everyone is anyone's guess!
After loading the luggage into Tac's new-ish four-wheel drive car, we were on the road through the rain and mist. It's only on leaving Yangon that it's possible to really see the lack of development in this great country. The countryside in this region comprises rolling hills, much of which have suffered excessive deforestation over the past 20 years. Attempts are being made to replant the forests and one could see where this was taking place. Houses were simple shack-like affairs and villages are set back from the main roads, the idea being that you build your villages closest to the fields and more importantly, the nearest source of water. Juxtaposed to this were the occasional signs of affluence – Tac pointed out a massive new hospital, built and run by the military. To my eyes, it looked like a 19th century asylum and built to intimate. Tac also pointed out one of the mansions belonging to one of the military junta’s cronies.
I wasn't prepared for the roads! The roads contained more holes than a colander and the driving rules seemed to be left to the individual. One rule that every one seems to observe is the use of the horn. I gathered (I was afraid to ask) that one must sound your horn if you intend to overtake. Whether this is to warn the driver whom you are to overtake of your intentions, or to warn any oncoming traffic, I never did find out. In any case, it would have been possible to write a symphony or at least a large-scale piano sonata from the assortment of sounds. Movement was slow due to the state of the roads. At least there was much laughter and good conversation, occasionally interrupted by Iris's pleas of "are we nearly there yet?" and "I'm hungry!" This was only done in jest towards her father however!
After a good 1h 1/2 drive, the pangs of hunger set in as we arrived at the small town of Aungban. Tac suggested we go to a good Chinese restaurant that he occasionally patronises. On turning into the car park, we were greeted with a sea of police cars and policemen. It was not that there had been trouble, but that the local police chiefs had the same idea as us and had virtually taken over the restaurant for their lunch.
While we could have eaten there, we thought it better to find somewhere else and let them have their free lunch in peace - some things don't change quickly. Tac knew another tea room in the town where we would be able to eat a paid lunch. Tac ordered a selection of Shan food comprising chicken, beef and noodles etc. The restaurant was freezing, the only source of heat being the fire stove on which the food was cooked and coffee made. A small route march was required to find the toilets. After negotiating my way past old car tyres (no doubt brought to a premature end by the perforated roads) and the chickens - I wondered if I'd just consumed some of their siblings or cousins, I found the traditional toilet.
The only slight discomfort I felt in the restaurant was being stared at by the waitress. I took this to mean that she was either being flirtatious, thought I was some sort of freak, or was wondering if I was that person she'd seen on TV. No matter what state of development a country is in, it seems no one is without their TV, even in Myanmar.
We set off again on the slow road.
We called in at a local village half way to Pindana because Iris needed to use the facilities there. Tac was not sure what arrangements they would have in the small tea room he knew, but we made a stop as it was the last place before reaching our destination. The village was quite a hive of activity with its market and various places of trade in full swing. Two large wooden carts, pulled by oxen (a common sight in rural Myanmar) wheeled their way past the car. Claudine pointed out the large flat screen TV in the cafe. Tac explained that it was one of the many new products being made and brought to Myanmar by the Chinese. Is was strange to see the lack of development sitting side by side with the latest technology.
After another 1 ½ hours drive (passing by Tac’s village), we arrived at our destination of Pindaya around dusk. It’s a sizable town with a large lake and a long main street which hugs the lake.
We first checked into our hotel – the ‘Golden Caves Hotel’. We were warmly (a good thing since it was still very cold, wet, and misty) by the staff. The hotel in owned and run by one of Tac’s friends. It was basic but clean which is the most important thing. After dropping our baggage off in our room, we just had time to drive up the hill and through the mist to see Pindaya’s the most famous attraction - The Golden Caves. The Golden Caves of Pindaya are a Buddhist pilgrimage site and a top attraction. After the steep climb from the car park, were we confronted with the sight of a large spider being shot at with a bow and arrow by a bejewelled man. I was worried for a moment that we had been brought to some sort of amusement park, but Tac explained that one of the legends of Pindaya concerns the story of seven princesses who were captured by a large spider while bathing in the lake and who were later rescued by Prince Kummabhaya of Yawnghwe. Surely a book there for someone or a Harry Potteresque blockbuster?
In contrast to the outdoors, the caves were pleasantly warm. The three large caves contain over 8,000 statues and images of Buddha. It is simply breathtaking to see. Many of the statues date from the 18th and 19th centuries. Since then, many other statues and images have been placed there by different donors. Here are just a few photos which give an impression, but like many things, one must visit to fully appreciate the experience.
After a good hour in the caves, we made our way back to the hotel. Tac and Iris were heading back home (about a 45 min drive away in the pouring rain) to help Tac’s wife prepare the meal we were to share with them the following day. They promised they would be back at 10am the following morning to collect us. Just as they were leaving, the lights in the entire village went out! Tac explained that this is a common occurrence when the grid is overloaded - perhaps too many people watching sky news (yes, its one of the main satellite channels available in this region - it's true!) at the same time.
We waved goodbye and set off down the village street in the darkness, gingerly avoiding the potholes and mini ponds in the road. As we reached the nearby restaurant, the lights came on again. The restaurant was certainly one of the best in Pindaya. Myanmar chicken curry and noodles were consumed.
On returning to the hotel, Claudine requested a flashlight as she had already suspected what was coming. As we climbed into bed, with torrential rain pouring on the tin roof, the lights went out again, came on, went out etc. You can imagine the rest, and the need for a flashlight! Occasionally, one would hear the hotel's generator burst into life, sounding like a cross between one of those small, ancient Fiats and a lawnmower. We both fell asleep exhausted, me with memories of childhood in Britain during the late 1970s...........
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